![]() This not only makes for a stiffer wheel because the spacing between the flanges increases, it also pushes the chain line out by 3mm creating more room for fat tyres. Standard non-boost spacing sees 100mm at the front and 135 or 142mm at the rear, while boost spaced hubs are 110mm wide at the front and 148mm at the back. ![]() Then there is the spacing you're either looking at non-boost, boost and in rare cases super-boost. What axle size does your fork use? Is it 12mm, 15mm or 20mm? Or maybe even 5mm quick release? For the most part, it seems the industry has settled on 15mm for most mountain bikes, with downhill bikes jumping up to 20mm. There is a negligible weight difference between the two, with any advantage in grams saved or gained on the hub made up with the rotor and mounting hardware. Hubs will either have a six-bolt or centre-lock mount for disc rotors. Hubs designed for gravity riding may be made from steel, where the weight penalty is worth it when balanced against catastrophic failure. ![]() Most MTB hubs are made from alloy, with some ultra-high-end options utilising carbon fibre to reduce weight. Sealed bearings are also more expensive to replace. To crack one open, you'll have to carefully peel out the waterproof seal, remove the old grease, remove the degreaser, and pack them with fresh grease before replacing the seal, being careful not to fold or damage it. Cartridge bearings, on the other hand, see everything packaged into a sealed unit, meaning they are much easier to replace and don't require any tension adjustment, but they are a bit more difficult to service. ![]()
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